Rogan Josh Curry

A classic Kashmiri slow-cooked lamb curry with deep red color, warming spices, and fall-apart tender meat.

By Cressio Rinaldi

Rogan josh is a classic lamb curry from Kashmir, and it is a masterclass in patient cooking. There is no cream, no coconut milk and almost no tomato. The deep red color comes from Kashmiri chili powder, which is mild and bright, and the thick, savory sauce comes from slowly caramelized onions and yogurt.

The recipe leans on three techniques. Whole spices are sizzled in ghee first, to flavor the fat. The onions are cooked slowly, for about 15 minutes, until they are deeply golden. And the yogurt is stirred in a tablespoon at a time, which keeps it from curdling. After that, the lamb simmers gently for over an hour, until it falls apart.

It serves four, takes about two hours, and mostly cooks itself. The smell alone is worth it.

Read this first

  1. Cook the onions until they are deeply golden. This is the heart of the sauce.
  2. Add the yogurt slowly, a spoonful at a time, over low heat.
  3. Simmer gently with the lid on. Lamb shoulder needs time.

Prep time: 20 mins · Cook time: 1 hr 30 mins · Serves 4

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Heat ghee in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add whole spices and sizzle for 30 seconds. Look for: Whole spices that sizzle and smell sweet and warm, with a fragrant oil.
  2. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until deeply caramelized and golden, about 15 minutes. Look for: A deep, golden-brown, jammy onion paste, with no black spots.
  3. Add garlic and ginger, cook for 2 minutes. Stir in chili powder, coriander, and cumin. Look for: A fragrant, red-brown paste that smells of garlic, ginger and chili.
  4. Add lamb pieces and brown on all sides, about 8 minutes. Look for: Lamb that has browned and picked up a rusty red color.
  5. Reduce heat and stir in yogurt a tablespoon at a time, mixing well after each addition to prevent curdling. Look for: A smooth sauce, with no white streaks of yogurt or curdled bits.
  6. Add 1 cup of water, bring to a simmer, cover and cook on low heat for 60-75 minutes until lamb is very tender. Look for: Lamb that falls apart with a spoon, in a thick sauce with red oil at the edges.
  7. Stir in garam masala and adjust salt. Serve with basmati rice or naan. Look for: A glossy, deep red curry that smells warm and aromatic.

Nutrition

Amount per serving. Nutritional values are estimates calculated from the ingredients above and can vary.

Notes

Cook It With Me

Flavor the ghee

Heat the 3 tablespoons of ghee in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the whole spices (cardamom pods, cloves and the cinnamon stick) and let them sizzle for 30 seconds, until fragrant.

Caramelize the onions

Add the 2 finely chopped onions and cook, stirring often, for about 15 minutes, until they are deeply caramelized and golden brown. If they start to stick, add a splash of water. This takes patience, but it is where the flavor and color come from.

Add the aromatics and spices

Add the 5 minced garlic cloves and the 2 tablespoons of grated ginger and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the 2 tablespoons of Kashmiri chili powder, the 1 teaspoon of coriander and the 1 teaspoon of cumin, and cook for 30 seconds, until fragrant.

Brown the lamb

Add the 2 lbs of lamb pieces and brown them on all sides, about 8 minutes. The meat will pick up the color of the spices.

Add the yogurt

Reduce the heat to low. Stir in the 1/2 cup of yogurt, a tablespoon at a time, mixing well after each addition. Use room temperature yogurt, and this slow method stops it from curdling.

Simmer

Add 1 cup of water, bring to a simmer, cover and cook on low heat for 60 to 75 minutes, until the lamb is very tender and the oil is floating on the surface.

Finish

Stir in the 1 1/2 teaspoons of garam masala and adjust the salt. Serve with basmati rice or naan.

The Ingredients, One by One

Lamb shoulder

Cut into 2 inch pieces. Shoulder has enough fat and connective tissue to become silky after a long, slow cook. Leg is leaner and can dry out.

Onions

Two large onions, finely chopped, make the base of the sauce. Cook them slowly.

Plain yogurt

Adds creaminess and tang. Use full-fat, and bring it to room temperature first.

Garlic and ginger

The traditional aromatics.

Ghee or oil

Ghee has a rich, nutty flavor that suits the dish.

Kashmiri chili powder

It gives vivid red color and mild heat. If you can’t find it, use paprika with a little cayenne.

Garam masala, coriander and cumin

Garam masala goes in at the end for fragrance. Coriander and cumin give a warm base.

Whole spices

Cardamom, cloves and cinnamon flavor the ghee.

The Technique Behind It

Why caramelize the onions

Slow cooking turns their sugars into a deep, sweet, savory paste. It is the base of the sauce, so there is no tomato or cream.

Why add the yogurt slowly

Cold or sudden yogurt can curdle in hot spices. Adding it a spoonful at a time, stirring well, keeps it smooth.

Why a long, gentle simmer

Lamb shoulder is tough until the collagen has melted. A low, slow cook turns it tender.

Mistakes That Cost You the Dish

Fix It: If This Happens, Do This

ProblemLikely causeFix
Yogurt curdledToo hot or added too fastLower the heat and blend the sauce smooth with a stick blender.
Lamb is toughNot cooked long enoughKeep simmering.
Sauce is thinToo much waterSimmer uncovered for 10 minutes.
Sauce is too hotToo much chiliAdd yogurt or serve with raita.
Sauce is blandNeeds saltAdd salt and a pinch of garam masala.

What Each Ingredient Does (and What You Can Swap)

IngredientIts jobSwap, and what changes
Lamb shoulderRich meatGoat or beef chuck work.
Kashmiri chili powderColorPaprika with cayenne works.
GheeRichnessOil works.
YogurtTangCream works in a smaller amount.
Whole spicesAromaGround spices work in small amounts.

Plan Ahead

What to Serve With It

Serve with steamed basmati rice or warm naan, and a simple cucumber raita. A sprinkle of chopped cilantro finishes it.

Questions People Ask

Is it very spicy?

Kashmiri chili is mild. It is more about warmth than heat.

Can I use beef?

Yes, chuck is a good option.

Why is my sauce not red?

Use Kashmiri chili powder.

Can I use a pressure cooker?

Yes. Cook for about 25 minutes.

Can I make it ahead?

Yes.

Is there tomato in it?

Traditionally not much. The color comes from the chili.

About the Author

Cressio Rinaldi

Cressio Rinaldi

Cressio Rinaldi is the recipe developer behind Cressio Recipes. He cooks, tests, and writes every recipe on the site himself — refining each one until it's simple enough for a weeknight and good enough to make again. He's not a trained chef, just someone who cooks constantly and pays close attention to what actually makes a recipe work.